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Tips and Suggestions

  • After turning on your propane tanks, light one burner on the stove top to start the gas flowing through the system before starting other gas appliances. This helps bleed any air from the system so your appliances are more likely to start on the first try.
  • Always level your RV before starting the refrigerator. The unit may operate improperly, or not at all if your RV is not level.
  • Pre-cool the refrigerator at least 24 hours before loading in your food, and try to load the RV refrigerator with items that are already cold. This is especially important in hot weather.
  • Opening and closing the refrigerator excessively or leaving the door open will cause it to warm up dramatically, much more than the refrigerator in your home. This is especially true in hot weather. Try to limit the amount of time the door is open.
  • When storing your RV with the refrigerator off, leave the refrigerator doors ajar to avoid mold and mildew.
  • When filling the fresh water storage tank, do not use full hose pressure. Filling the water tank too quickly can cause the tank to rupture or break the mountings. A tank fill adapter will help the tank to vent more effectively when filling.
  • Verify the operation of your trailer brakes before setting off on each trip, and be sure your brake control is adjusted properly.
  • Check the wheel lug bolt torque before each trip. If necessary, retighten them to the torque specified in your owners manual.
  • Always use RV approved toilet tissue. It is designed to break down quickly in your holding tank and prevent clogs and buildup over time.
  • Toilet chemical should always be used to help deodorize and break down waste. You should always start with 3-5 gallons of water in the tank (enough to cover the bottom) and allow the tank to become as full as possible before dumping it. This promotes more complete draining and reduces buildup. NEVER leave your toilet tank dump valve open while the trailer is in use.
  • The kitchen waste holding tank (grey water) will require cleaning from time to time to remove grease buildup and allow the monitors to read correctly. Chemical de-greasers are available in our parts department.
  • Check the water level in your batteries once a month. This is especially important if the trailer is plugged into 110V power while in storage. Top off with distilled water if needed.
  • If the coach batteries are low, the LP leak detector will sound an alarm. Plug the trailer into 110V or otherwise charge the batteries.
  • 110V wall receptacles are wired to a common GFI breaker, usually located on the plug in the bathroom area. If this has tripped, no power will be available at any of the plugs. Push the reset button on the plug to restore power. Note that the refrigerator 110V circuit is often wired to this as well.
  • When storing the RV for more than two weeks, disconnect wires on the negative battery terminal or use the battery disconnect switch if equipped. This will help avoid battery drain.
  • The furnace must be turned off at the thermostat control while not in use. If the thermostat is simply turned down, the furnace may come on unnecessarily and drain your battery.
  • Covering the tires of your trailer while in storage will protect them from premature failure due to weather checking. Vinyl tire covers are sold in our parts department for this purpose.
  • Grease your fifth wheel plate, slider bar or spring bars and hitch ball before each trip to reduce noise and premature wear. Teflon discs for fifth wheels are a great alternative and are sold in our parts department.
  • Proper venting and air circulation will help prevent condensation inside the RV. Leaving one or more windows and roof vents slightly open will help, and our service department can install a power exhaust roof vent to help even more.
  • Have your axles and brakes serviced once a year. This includes repacking the wheel bearings, inspecting and adjusting the brakes and brake wiring, and checking axle U-bolts and spring hangers.
  • Use of a city water pressure regulator is highly recommended to keep water pressure at a constant 45 PSI. Many RV parks have higher or fluctuating pressure, and this can cause damage to water lines.
  • Be sure that drawers and cabinets are closed before extending or retracting your slide out rooms. They can sometimes be close enough to cause interference damage.
  • If you've been parked under trees, check the roof of the slide out rooms and sweep off any debris before retracting the rooms. Slide topper awnings can help prevent debris from being pulled inside the coach and possibly interfering with the weather seal.

Winterizing with Anti-Freeze

To winterize with antifreeze you will need the following supplies and equipment:

  • 2 gallons of RV antifreeze
  • Paper towels or cloth towel to wipe up water and antifreeze
  • A water heater bypass device on the water heater feed
  • A 5' length of 1/2" tasteless water hose

Step #1

  • Drain the fresh water tank. To find the drain, first locate the fresh water fill. The fresh water or portable water tank, as it is some times referred to, will be inside the trailer at the point of the fill. Some units have sub floor water tanks but they will be located by the water fill location. If your tank is inside your RV, the drain will be either at the base of the tank, (on the tank itself or at the end of a short plumbing line), on the outside of your RV below the water fill, or under the RV on a stanchion coming down through the floor. If your tank drains slowly, you may wish to look for waterline drain outs and speed up the process by opening the drains and turning on your water pump. Most pumps flow 3 gallons per minute, which means you can drain a 40 gallon tank in about 13 minutes.If the water tank in your units is in an insulated sub-floor, the drain will be located on the bottom of the tank under the RV. (*Note: some tank drains are routed out through the main frame of the RV and are hidden behind the wheels.)

Step #2

  • Drain the water heater. First, turn off the 110V element in your water heater. To do this, switch the wall switch "and" the switch on the water heater itself to the off position. If you have a 1994 or newer unit, the on-off switch may be on the outside of the water heater, tucked under the control valve. You will find the drain plug or drain cock to be on the bottom of the tank inside the water heater access door on the outside of the RV. Using your 1/2 drive, remove the drain plug. The drain plug will either be plastic or metal. Be very careful to use the proper size socket because some drain plugs will be very tight. If your unit has a drain cock, it will look like a automobile radiator drain. Turn the drain clockwise to open. The pop-off valve is the brass valve at the top of the outside face of the water heater. Pull the pressure pop-off lever to a straight out position. This will relieve the vacuum in the water heater tank and allow it to drain.

Step #3

  • Locate your low point drains if your RV is so equipped and open them. To find your low point drains, follow your plumbing lines through your unit. The drains will have pull up "T" valves if they are inside the RV. Some brands have low point drains outside, under the unit. These outside drains will be either 2-90 degree valves or 2 lines with caps or plugs. Next, open all sink and shower faucets in the RV This will allow most of the water in the system to drain.

Step #4

  • After all lines have finished draining, turn on the water pump and run it for 5 minutes. This will clear out the fresh water tank-to-pump pickup line. Check to see if your water pump has a water pump filter screen mounted on the intake side of the pump. If it does, simply turn the screen housing counter clockwise to open. The purpose of this step is to drain the screen housing. After all the water is removed, reassemble the the pump screen housing. If your unit has a water filter, a winterize plug was provided at the time of purchase. Remove the filter and install the plug.
Step #5
  • Disconnect the fresh water pickup hose from the water pump. (This is lead from the fresh water tank). Connect the 5' length of water hose to the pump where you just removed the water tank pick up line. Secure the 5' length with the same clap that was used on the original hose. Place the other end of the 5' length in one of your two gallons of antifreeze.

Step #6

  • Switch the bypass valve on the water heater to the bypass position.

Step #7

  • Turn on your water pump. Open each faucet in the RV and let the water run until it turns the pink color of the antifreeze. When you have finished this, reconnect the water hose to its original position and switch off the water heater bypass.

Step #8

  • Connect your compressor to the city water inlet with the air to the hose adapter. Go through your RV and close all faucets and drains, leaving only the kitchen cold side open. (Hang a dampened wash rag or shop towel over the faucet to reduce water splattering). When all the water is blow out of that line, open the hot side of the kitchen faucet. Then with both hot and cold faucets open, close the cold side of that faucet. Repeat this procedure for the bathroom sink, the shower, the toilet valve and the outside shower if your unit has one. Always leave at least one faucet open so as to not build up excessive pressure in the water system. (On units with single mixer faucets, you can simply witch from cold to hot and no other faucet has to be open during that process. To aid in holding the valve open, simply open the flush valve and insert short piece of 2x2 directly into the flush opening. Let the valve close on the 2x2 and this will keep the water flush valve in the open position).
    The last part of this step is to remove the water heater drain plug and blow out any water that may have collected in the bottom of the water heater. Also re-open the low point drains and make sure no water remains down in the stanchions. Finally, replace water heater and drain line caps and plug. (All drain plugs should be tightly in place).

Step #9

  • To keep the sink drain traps from freezing, pour 3 cups of non-toxic RV antifreeze down each drain. Be sure to do all three; the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, and the shower drain.Step #7Drain the holding tanks on your RV. If you have only limited contents in the tanks, it is not imperative that they be drained.
    To de-winterize your RV, fill the fresh water tank and flush the water lines until the water runs clear.

Winterizing with Air

To blow out the plumbing in your RV you will need the following supplies and equipment:

  • A compressor capable of maintaining 100 PSI constant output. (Make sure the compressor you use has been serviced regularly.)
  • A city water inlet water hose to air hose quick connector. (See Curtis Parts to assemble an adapter to fit your compressor.)
  • A 1/2 drive ratchet with long extension and sockets.
  • 1 gallon of non-toxic antifreeze
  • 1 shop towel or dish rag
  • Paper towels or cloth towel to wipe up splattered water
  • Water pump pliers (channel locks).

Step #1

  • Drain the fresh water tank. To find the drain, first locate the fresh water fill. The fresh water or portable water tank, as it is some times referred to, will be inside the trailer at the point of the fill. Some units have sub floor water tanks but they will be located by the water fill location. If your tank is inside your RV, the drain will be either at the base of the tank, (on the tank itself or at the end of a short plumbing line), on the outside of your RV below the water fill, or under the RV on a stanchion coming down through the floor. If your tank drains slowly, you may wish to look for waterline drain outs and speed up the process by opening the drains and turning on your water pump. Most pumps flow 3 gallons per minute, which means you can drain a 40 gallon tank in about 13 minutes. If the water tank in your units is in an insulated sub-floor, the drain will be located on the bottom of the tank under the RV. (*Note: some tank drains are routed out through the main frame of the RV and are hidden behind the wheels.)

Step #2

  • Drain the water heater. First, turn off the 110V element in your water heater. To do this, switch the wall switch "and" the switch on the water heater itself to the off position. If you have a 1994 or newer unit, the on-off switch may be on the outside of the water heater, tucked under the control valve. You will find the drain plug or drain cock to be on the bottom of the tank inside the water heater access door on the outside of the RV. Using your 1/2 drive, remove the drain plug. The drain plug will either be plastic or metal. Be very careful to use the proper size socket because some drain plugs will be very tight. If your unit has a drain cock, it will look like a automobile radiator drain. Turn the drain clockwise to open. The pop-off valve is the brass valve at the top of the outside face of the water heater. Pull the pressure pop-off lever to a straight out position. This will relieve the vacuum in the water heater tank and allow it to drain.

Step #3

  • Locate your low point drains if your RV is so equipped and open them. To find your low point drains, follow your plumbing lines through your unit. The drains will have pull up "T" valves if they are inside the RV. Some brands have low point drains outside, under the unit. These outside drains will be either 2-90 degree valves or 2 lines with caps or plugs. Next, open all sink and shower faucets in the RV This will allow most of the water in the system to drain.

Step #4

  • After all lines have finished draining, turn on the water pump and run it for 5 minutes. This will clear out the fresh water tank-to-pump pickup line. Check to see if your water pump has a water pump filter screen mounted on the intake side of the pump. If it does, simply turn the screen housing counter clockwise to open. The purpose of this step is to drain the screen housing. After all the water is removed, reassemble the the pump screen housing. If your unit has a water filter, a winterize plug was provided at the time of purchase. Remove the filter and install the plug.

Step #5

  • Connect your compressor to the city water inlet with the air to the hose adapter. Go through your RV and close all faucets and drains, leaving only the kitchen cold side open. (Hang a dampened wash rag or shop towel over the faucet to reduce water splattering). When all the water is blow out of that line, open the hot side of the kitchen faucet. Then with both hot and cold faucets open, close the cold side of that faucet. Repeat this procedure for the bathroom sink, the shower, the toilet valve and the outside shower if your unit has one. Always leave at least one faucet open so as to not build up excessive pressure in the water system. (On units with single mixer faucets, you can simply witch from cold to hot and no other faucet has to be open during that process. To aid in holding the valve open, simply open the flush valve and insert short piece of 2x2 directly into the flush opening. Let the valve close on the 2x2 and this will keep the water flush valve in the open position). The last part of this step is to remove the water heater drain plug and blow out any water that may have collected in the bottom of the water heater. Also re-open the low point drains and make sure no water remains down in the stanchions. Finally, replace water heater and drain line caps and plug. (All drain plugs should be tightly in place).

Step #6

  • To keep the sink drain traps from freezing, pour 3 cups of non-toxic RV antifreeze down each drain. Be sure to do all three; the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, and the shower drain.Step #7Drain the holding tanks on your RV. If you have only limited contents in the tanks, it is not imperative that they be drained.
    To de-winterize your RV simply fill your water tank and run your water pump until water has re circulated through out the entire water system.

Outfitting

The following is a handy list of items we consider essential to equip your RV before you head out on an RV trip.

  • Water Pressure Regulator - A must have and buy a good one. Some campgrounds have too much water pressure and you could end up blowing out the water lines in your RV. Also keep in mind that these regulators could lose their regulating abilities over time, so it's a good idea to buy a new one every couple of years or so, depending on how often you use it.
  • Fresh Water Hose - The "white" hose. Don't use a regular garden hose for your fresh water connection; they are not safe. A 25-fooer will do in most situations, but it might be a good idea to carry an extra 25-footer for those times when you're further away from the water connection.
  • Sewer Hose - We recommend two sections; a 10-foot section and a 20-foot section, each with a fitting on one end for the RV connection. Or, you can purchase something like Camco's Quick Connect system; two 10-foot sections that connect together quickly when you need that extra reach.
  • Sewer Hose Fittings - You might want a couple of different types for the sewer-end of the hose, and a rubber Sewer Ring. The sewer ring is a must have as some campgrounds require this fitting.
  • Electrical Extension Cord - A 25-foot extension cord to match your RV's electrical rating (20-amp, 30-amp or 50-amp extension cord) for the times when you can't get close enough to the electrical outlet. It's not often, but when that time occurs you'll be glad you have the extension.
  • Electrical Adapters - A range of adapters to be able to plug your RV into whatever electrical service is available. If your RV is set up for 50-amp service, you'll need adapters to plug into either 30-amp service or 20-amp service. If your rig is 50-amp, there are also adapters that allow plugging in to both the 30-amp service and the 20-amp service to provide the 50-amps you need (depending on how the campground electrical service is wired).
  • Garden Hose - For rinsing out your black water tank or for whenever you might need a length of regular garden hose. Include a nozzle in your RV and remember, don't use your fresh water hose for rinsing out your black water tank. Use your fresh water hose for fresh water only.
  • Wheel Chocks - Or some form of locking the wheels of your RV. There are many options available on the market, but good old ordinary wheel chocks work best.
  • Leveling Blocks - The orange Lynx levelers work great, but any pieces of wood cut into squares will do just fine. Don't depend on your stabilizer jacks to level your RV. They are meant for stabilizing, not leveling.
  • Level or Stick-On Levelers - How else can you make sure your RV is level?
  • Extra Fuses - Check your RV manual for the types and sizes of fuses in your RV and carry extras of each.
  • Extra Bulbs - Again, check your manual for the types and sizes and carry extras. Remember extras for the interior as well as the exterior, for the stoplights, running lights, and such.
  • Fire Extinguisher - If you buy your RV new, it will already come equipped with a fire extinguisher. But, if you buy used, it may or may not have one. This is certainly essential, and make sure to check the charge regularly.
  • First Aid Kit - A good one is essential. Make sure it includes (or you take along with it) things such as aspirin, antacid, cough syrup, and the like, along with tweezers and a thermometer, bandages, first aid cream.
  • Black Water Chemicals - Don't even think about using your toilet without adding waste chemical first; trust me!
  • RV Toilet Paper - The degradable type used for RVs and portable toilets. Using regular toilet paper will clog your black holding tank eventually.
  • Rags - You always need rags for something.
  • Disposable Rubber Gloves - Needed when you're dumping and flushing the black water tank.
  • Non-Slip Cabinet Linings - You'll be sorry if you don't line those cabinets with this stuff.
  • Flashlight - Although not absolutely essential, we include this in our must have list. Include extra batteries also.
  • Matches - Or one of those butane match sticks, for lighting the range, oven, grill or starting your campfire in the evening.
  • Tools - Make sure you carry the basics, such as:
    1. Pliers, both large and small
    2. Needle-Nose Pliers
    3. Channel Locks
    4. Assortment of flat-heat screwdrivers
    5. Assortment of Phillips-Head screwdrivers
    6. Hammer
    7. Fuse Puller
    8. Basic Wrenches, both box and open end
    9. Socket Set, if you're so inclined
    10. Tire Gauge

Trailer Towing Guides

Knowing the maximum weight your vehicle manufacturer recommends for towing is important in helping you find a trailer that will provide a safe and comfortable towing experience. Be sure to check our annual tow rating guides, compiled from all major vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, as well as some great information on choosing a tow vehicle, essential equipment, trailer brakes and more. Adobe reader is required to view the guides.

Trailer Hitch Basics

  • Proper hitch equipment is vital to ensuring safety and comfort while towing your trailer or fifth wheel, and Curtis Trailers has many years of experience helping people safely connect trailers to vehicles. In general, recreation vehicle trailering is done with three basic hitch types: weight carrying, weight distributing and fifth wheel.

Weight Carrying

  • The simplest style of hitch, with all of the trailer's tongue weight bearing on the hitch at the rear of the towing vehicle. This is suitable for towing trailers with relatively light hitch weights, typically under 300 pounds. Folding tent trailers commonly use this method.

Weight Distributing

  • This method is the most frequently used with RV travel trailers to help compensate for the higher hitch weights typical on a full sized unit. Torsion bars are used to redistribute a portion of the hitch weight toward the front axle of the towing vehicle, helping to keep the ride level and improving traction to the front wheels for better braking and steering control while towing. This method is often accompanied by the use of a sway control device.

Fifth Wheel

  • Fifth wheel style trailers use a special hitch that is mounted in the cargo area of a pickup or flat bed truck, usually directly above or slightly ahead of the rear axle. This allows for even higher hitch weights to be carried, which is why many of the largest trailers are only offered in this style. A special sliding hitch is used for proper clearance if your truck bed is less than 8 feet long.

Trailer Brakes

  • A trailer brake controller is installed in the towing vehicle to activate the electric brake systems used by most travel trailers and fifth wheels. There are several styles, but all are designed to automatically apply the trailer brakes when the vehicle brakes are used. It will also allow manual braking of the trailer if desired.

Use Our Experience!

  • Our staff will help you get the most out of your RV experience by helping you choose the right hitch and brake systems based on your tow vehicle, trailer size and weight, and your individual style. You'll be safely on the road in no time with no worries, ready to enjoy the great outdoors!